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It's been a while since I drove through West Virginia until this past month when I was heading back from KY (I usually fly back, so it's been about 8 years since I've driven that route). There sure are a lot of hollers and mountains and valleys. That stretch of Appalachia from Eastern KY through WV and into western MD is so beautiful.
I've never really understood venting to be honest with you, I was always told so many things that sounded like snake oil that it wwould, make slurs easier, make th3 instrument blow more open that it would open up the low register ect. But I've also heard if its not done right it can ruin the instrument. Whats really the point of it?JCTuba67 wrote: Wed Jul 22, 2026 8:28 am I remember this F when Ivan bought it. I think he moved on to another 6V Alexander lacquer F tuba that he used for his entire career. My only concern about this one is the venting of the valves. However the custom work looks pretty good.
Differences in air temperature as the air column in valve circuits warms and cools as you're playing (or tacet in a movement, etc.) can cause a very slight pop/bump in the air stream as those air pressures normalize. Venting opens up the "dead" circuit to the outside air so that doesn't happen, and it also allows you to pull and push slides without a pop as you're playing. I think it definitely helps with smoothing out slurring due to a real, measurable physical alteration to the tuba. As far as making the instrument blow more open or open up the low register, I'm not sure about all that. Maybe! I like it just because I can fiddle with my first valve slide while playing. My Miraphone 186 CC has all five valves vented.Timtamtuba wrote: Wed Jul 22, 2026 10:31 amI've never really understood venting to be honest with you, I was always told so many things that sounded like snake oil that it wwould, make slurs easier, make th3 instrument blow more open that it would open up the low register ect. But I've also heard if its not done right it can ruin the instrument. Whats really the point of it?JCTuba67 wrote: Wed Jul 22, 2026 8:28 am I remember this F when Ivan bought it. I think he moved on to another 6V Alexander lacquer F tuba that he used for his entire career. My only concern about this one is the venting of the valves. However the custom work looks pretty good.
Explained that way it actually does make sense. Basically stabilizes air pressure which is useful in an air conditioned hall or a very warm rehearsal space. I don't think ive ever played on a vented instrument? Maybe the firebird I owned over a decade ago now but I don't rememberarpthark wrote: Wed Jul 22, 2026 11:34 amDifferences in air temperature as the air column in valve circuits warms and cools as you're playing (or tacet in a movement, etc.) can cause a very slight pop/bump in the air stream as those air pressures normalize. Venting opens up the "dead" circuit to the outside air so that doesn't happen, and it also allows you to pull and push slides without a pop as you're playing. I think it definitely helps with smoothing out slurring due to a real, measurable physical alteration to the tuba. As far as making the instrument blow more open or open up the low register, I'm not sure about all that. Maybe! I like it just because I can fiddle with my first valve slide while playing. My Miraphone 186 CC has all five valves vented.Timtamtuba wrote: Wed Jul 22, 2026 10:31 amI've never really understood venting to be honest with you, I was always told so many things that sounded like snake oil that it wwould, make slurs easier, make th3 instrument blow more open that it would open up the low register ect. But I've also heard if its not done right it can ruin the instrument. Whats really the point of it?JCTuba67 wrote: Wed Jul 22, 2026 8:28 am I remember this F when Ivan bought it. I think he moved on to another 6V Alexander lacquer F tuba that he used for his entire career. My only concern about this one is the venting of the valves. However the custom work looks pretty good.
It can be done incorrectly which can cause the valve to seal poorly and leak. It's a lot trickier to properly vent rotary valves due to the relatively smaller margin of error on the rotor surface and the fact that you need a steady hand and a long drill bit.
It's reversible with a small brass plug silver brazed into the vent hole (fancy) or a little blob of soft solder (redneck).