Has anyone ever taken a traffic cone, wrapped it in duct tape, added cork and used it as a tuba mute?

[arpthark]

If not, why?

[BramJ]

I was wondering the same a while ago. Traffic cones are often made of softer material, I wonder what the effect of that would be

I am playing with the idea of 3D printing a perfect fitting/shaped mute. But would it be better to use softer or rigid material? (for a practice mute)

[arpthark]

It has a built-in base and would be intrinsically less wobbly than most tuba mutes. I guess it would need some kind of enclosure over the bottom of the base if it's hollow. I haven't looked too closely at one.

[shovelingtom]

They are hollow, and the base is has a hole in it matching the diameter of the bottoms of the cone. There’s also a hole at the top that’s maybe 3/4 inch in diameter. The bases are heavier than you’d think they’d be. Most of the ones I use frequently (the good ones) are made of pliable urethane or something similar, and not plastic.

[UncleBeer]

The acoustics of the 'bell end' of a successful mute are pretty complicated. The end of your bell is not the functioning end of your instrument (google "end effect, brass instruments"), so the shape/size of the big end are crucial to tuning, response, timbre, etc. All tuba mute designs have just been trial and error.

Just part of why tuba mutes suck.

[bloke]

The acoustics of the 'bell end' of a successful mute are pretty complicated. The end of your bell is not the functioning end of your instrument (google "end effect, brass instruments"), so the shape/size of the big end are crucial to tuning, response, timbre, etc. All tuba mute designs have just been trial and error.

Just part of why tuba mutes suck.

The only "amazing" (vs. "disappointing") performance mute I've ever encountered has been the smaller (4/4) H&B aluminum mute (appropriate for tubas such as Miraphone 186, as well as (in particular) 16-1/2" bell F tubas.

When I played 5/4 size C tubas, I suppose the Wick metal mute worked well. (B or B+).
That Wick mute is not really large enough for 6/4 tubas, and the larger H&B aluminum mute is a dog (C-).

CK is correct that mute geometry is critical, as well as (at this point) seemingly trial-and-error. Moreover - as far as the major angle of their geometry is concerned - they require a "perfect pitch" (which - and I stand corrected - is the TRUE and CORRECT meaning of "perfect pitch").

I don't do crazy-fast mute changes. The lack of scuffs and dents in my bells are worth more to me that making a few hundred bucks playing music composed or arranged by imbeciles.

As far as @arpthark is concerned (in regards to posing the original question) I might offer this as the ultimate answer:

https://www.facebook.com/reel/1402853164367384

I actually own a couple of traffic cones (which I use as warnings for when I'm mowing down at the highway...ie. 30 mph speed limit = 50 mph over a blind hill). Perhaps (with those pieces featuring those nonsensically-fast mute changes) I should use the orange traffic cones? I doubt if many people have messed with them. They're not particularly stiff...sorta soft/rubbery plastic.

[MikeS]

I once made a mute out of profiteroles, but the bass trombone player ate most of it during a tacet movement.