Now a tried an older Alexander Mouthpiece No. 35 (35 mm cup diameter, interestingly does not feel so much bigger than the PT82, "shallow" cup" and 7,8 mm bore, maybe also some different backbore). Fingering has changed:
d: 0 (almost i.e. a few cents too low only), 3 spot on
des: 23
c: 1 (ver open ...

In particular, tupas built with the classic Kaiser bugle taper place the fifth partial overtone (the pitchs which you specifically mentioned) quite flat.
Most of the Kaiser instruments that I've encountered offer a fairly in tune open d, but d flat down to B natural is fairly flat.


I would ...

I would tend to suspect that the fourth circuit is long (on an instrument whereby 2-4 is actually low enough in pitch without favoring), and also that the #1 circuit has long slide tubes to play C & F with 1-3 (pulling for that valve combination if the intonation of the ensemble is critical, and ...

I found that there are modern kaiser designs (and some vintage ones) which are spot on for 2-4 H and easy to handle with air and lips for a good 2-4 E without messing up C/F on 4th valve or the higher pitches using 2nd valve. Same for 124 Eb. A very nice example regarding intonation and a deep ...

In his workshops Andreas promotes to play the lightest and largest mouthpiece possible (maybe I simplify his sayings a bit). He said, he wanted the mouthpiece to be as light as it can get. It also features a very large bore. Btw. the "Paul der Große Pro" is a great piece for a large BBb tuba.

I'd just call them for an appointment if you're serious about testing. It's a rare opportunity to play and test current versions of Alexander instruments. My experience with them was very welcoming. Last year (and it should still be there as it was their showroom tuba) they had a very nice goldbrass ...

prodigal wrote: Sat Aug 01, 2026 9:08 am Want some range fun? Play scales against a good cellist.

That is only fair if the cellist plays tuba!

But surely a good practice routine for F or Eb tuba, painfully reminding me of my rather weak high range on F tuba while quiet "ok" on Eb.

Mine never suffered from that issue, but I play rather deep cups which might lower the upper register a bit. Before the restoration, Ab in the staff was a bit low and Bb below the staff was a bit high when pushed. Somehow the restoration cured those issues although still noticeable if you knew them ...

I don't think it's the valves as they were already fine before the full restoration and just slightly lapped in again.

I found this (almost total unnecessary) note missing or bad on several tubas, even high class instruments.

Besides that, this is why I had the tuba (a 1966 17" New Standard 3+1 ...

gocsick wrote: Fri Jul 31, 2026 11:51 am But 1+2 or 3 should be closer to an E than Eb. I am surprised you were able to make it work.

That's what I thought, too. I just tried all possible combinations and 3 works/worked better than 1+2.

Just a useless observation, even for a tuba forum. Take it as a summer holiday thread...

I stumbled over this some years ago on my Besson BBb while exploring the tonal range limits of me and the instrument. There is (almost) no high Eb (Eb4, or es¹ in german terms - 1st valve). On the Besson it is ...

I listened a bit back and forth to the video belonging to the discussed 163 comparing with other instruments presented on elder videos and some of which I played myself.

https://youtu.be/CSrACC0lgp4?si=GxHheJNAJ1GG2Ttb

Especially the low register seems to be very accessible and consistent. For me ...

Mary Ann wrote: Sun Jul 26, 2026 2:12 pm
And I have that stellar example sitting in my garage, and everyone wants it for free.

Yeah....a new condition one for less additional money than it would cost to patch up the one in the picture (certainly including replacing the bell) as good as someone ...

I just found some pictures where the patch can be seen. It's basically a rounded brass patch in double length of the cut patch forming a half moon on both sides after being soldered on. Was done more than 25 years ago intended as a "quick and cheap(!) fix" by a now quite known tuba builder before he ...

I had an old Alex 164 which had a very similar bell wire (including the Kranz!) damage repaired with a small "bracket" kind of patch. I got the instrument with the damage and had the repair done nicely by a good craftsman. No issues with the repair. There are worse places for tubing patches. This ...

I started to get to the lower priority items step by step since maybe 5 years. Tuba-wise I should be through now except for normal wear...I was lucky as I either already had or found decent elder used instruments and skilled repairmen for the needed works.

Selling seems to be the worst option in this condition as the trade value will be a fraction of the craftsmanship value for such an instrument. I'd either spend the $250 or "all in" I'd even think of adding a valve (or two) if you get hold of the right parts and find the right craftsmen to do the ...

I can second that. I experienced a similar surprise when I purchased a 1906 Boosey & Co. compensated 3+1 Eb extended to standard pitch. This tiny horn sounds beautiful and plays easier than an euphonium. Only downside playing-wise there is a lot of resistance playing F and E in the low register (134 ...

I wonder if tuba players are attracted to five strings on a bass guitar because of the five valve thing.

For me, not really. I was happy to get my my four strings sorted out when playing some pop arrangements for wind band. But I am happy with the low Eb my five string provides for such pieces ...

I play 60% BBb and maybe 30% F and occasionally Eb and Euphonium.

In 2020 I started playing F again after a 20 years hiatus. Fingerings came back quickly but switching was an issue. 2 years ago I got myself an Eb tuba for curiosity and because I had a tempting opportunity.

So I am mainly a "Bb guy ...